Monstera Borsigiana Growing Guide For Indoors and Houseplants

Last Updated on April 4, 2024 by Real Men Sow

Many gardeners dream of growing the Monstera Borsigiana plant in their homes. Their leaves are beautiful and just their presence brings peace to the room.

Understanding Monstera Borsigiana is the key if you want to grow this beautiful houseplant. They are not the easiest plant to grow, but they can be done, and this post will tell you just that!

What is Monstera Borsigiana?

Monstera borsigiana is also known as the Swiss Cheese Plant. It is one of the most well-known and easily recognized house plants. It is native to Central America’s tropical forests. This vining plant uses aerial roots to climb trees. It can grow to over 50 feet (15 m) in height and large, fenestrated foliage.

Monstera borsigiana is a very popular houseplant because of its dark green, fenestrated foliage. They are a show-stopper in their own right. Variegation is a highly sought-after leaf trait among plant lovers.

Monstera Borsigiana Varieties

Monstera borsigiana Aurea

Dark green leaves with yellow or gold variegation on the lashes.

Monstera borsigiana Variegata

Dark green leaves with stripes or spots.

Monstera borsigiana Albo Variegata

It is the show’s crown jewel and also one of the most rare and expensive houseplants. They can be white with variegation or even completely white.

What’s the difference between Monstera borsigiana vs Monstera deliciosa?

Monstera Borsigiana is a subspecies from Monstera Delicia. The two plants may look nearly identical at first glance, especially when they are small and have not yet been fenestrated.

These are some tips to help you tell the difference

  • Monstera deliciosa’s growth habit is to spread out, sometimes trailing horizontally. Monstera borsigiana, on the other hand, prefers climbing and vining.
  • Monstera deliciosa is a large indoor plant that can grow to almost 10 feet (3 m) in height. Its leaves can be as long as 2 feet (60 cm) and its leaves can reach as far as 2 feet (60 cm). Monstera borsigiana is a dwarf variety. It rarely grows higher than 7 feet (2.01 meters) and its leaves are smaller and more compact. Sometimes it is called dwarf Monstera borsigiana.
  • Geniculum: Look at the base of the leaf where it attaches with the stem. Monstera deliciosa’s geniculum should be noticeably wrinkled or wavy. It is smooth in Monstera borsigiana.
  • Monstera Borsigiana growth rate: It is a faster growing plant than deliciosa.
  • Price: Monstera Delicia is more expensive than Borsigiana.

It is also important to know that Monstera Borsigiana can be referred to as Monstera Delicia by growers. It is important to be aware of the differences before you go plant shopping.

How to Grow Monstera borsigiana

Pick the Right Light, Temperature and Location

Monstera Borsigiana, like most tropical plants, thrives in indirect, bright light. Too much sunlight can cause leaf burns, but too little light can result in no iconic leaf fenestrations. Your Monstera plant needs at least 6 hours of sunshine each day. It is highly recommended to use grow lights during winter.

Monstera borsigiana prefers temperatures between 60 and 80°F (15 to 27°C). The plant will cease to grow if temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C). Monstera plants cannot withstand frost. The leaves may wilt if exposed to freezing temperatures. It is possible to lose the plant.

Your Monstera Borsigiana should be placed in an area that is not drafty and where there are no sudden temperature fluctuations. This tropical plant can die if it is placed under an air conditioner, near a radiator, or next to drafty windows or doors. Monstera Borsigiana is tolerant of low humidity but will not accept a humidifier.

Can Monstera Borsigiana be grown outdoors?

Yes, If you are in the US hardiness zones 10, 11 or tropical climates, then yes! Monstera borsigiana can be grown outdoors. It can be planted directly in your garden soil. It needs to be supported vertically. Monstera borsigiana will soon reach a height of 7 feet (2.01 meters) once it is planted outdoors.

Soil for Monstera Borsigiana

Monstera borsigiana thrives on loamy, nutrient rich, well-draining soils.

It is recommended that you use:

  • Universal potting mix or compost: It’s inexpensive and nutrient-rich. It works best as the foundation for your soil mixture.
  • Perlite is a vital addition to any soil mix used for tropical plants. It helps with drainage and soil moisture, without having any impact on soil pH or nutrient levels.
  • Sphagnum peatmoss: This is a great way to keep the soil well-drained and aerated, as well as retain moisture.
  • Coco coir can be used in place of sphagnum moss. However, it tends to get compacted over time.
  • Pine bark is a great addition to your soil if you want it to retain its shape and acidity.

One part compost, one portion cactus soil and one part orchid soil is a great way to make a soil mix that will work well for your Monstera borsigiana. This will give you a good balance of nutrients and minerals, soil acidity and moisture retention, as well as drainage.

Water and Fertilizers

Monstera Borsigiana likes moist soil but is extremely sensitive to excessive watering. Too much water can cause yellowing of the leaves, root rot and other fungal problems. The age of the plant and its container size will determine how often and how much water to give it.

Check the soil with your finger as a rule of thumb. It’s time for watering if the soil top 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) feels dry.

Your Monstera Borsigiana should be given a monthly liquid fertilizer treatment throughout spring, summer, and autumn. You can aim for a nutrient mix of 20-20-20 or use a universal fertilizer rich in nitrogen. This will encourage leaf growth.

General Care for Monstera Borsigiana

Pruning the Plant

The plant can grow very tall and fast, therefore, regular pruning is essential. Removing old, damaged leaves will encourage your Monstera borsigiana to use more energy for new growth, making it healthier and fuller.

How to Prune Monstera Borsigiana

You will need to prune Monstera Borsigiana with a pair of scissors and gloves. The sap of this plant is mildly toxic and can cause skin irritations if in direct contact.

When to do it

Pruning Monstera borsigiana in spring and summer is a good time. The node is the section of the stem that has one or more leaves. Cut a straight line one inch below the node. Do not use a sawing motion as it can cause damage to the main stem.

Pruning aerial routes

Monstera Borsigiana also has very long aerial roots. These roots are used in the wild to support the plant while it climbs and to provide it with more nutrients. The roots can become a little unruly or even ugly when they are grown in containers. This is why it is sometimes necessary to remove them during pruning.

It is up to you whether you want to keep or remove the aerial roots from your Monstera. Don’t worry, removing them will not cause any damage to the plant.

Regular pruning has the best part: you can take your cuttings and grow Monstera Borsigiana plants. Take a look at the propagation guide further down to find out what you will need.

Repotting Monstera Borsigiana

Monstera borsigiana doesn’t like being rootbound. It would be a good idea to repot it at least twice a year in order to keep it healthy.

When to repot the plant?

Early spring is the best time to repot Monstera borsigiana. Repotting is a great way to establish a support system for your plant if you haven’t already.

Step-by-step repotting Monstera Borsigiana Houseplant

  1. Choose a container 1 to 2 times larger than your plant’s current one. Drainage holes must be provided at the bottom of the container.
  2. Give the pot a little squeeze to loosen the soil, and then gently ‘wiggle it out’, keeping it away from the stalks.
  3. After the root ball has been removed, take a look at it to make sure that they are in good condition. The roots should feel firm and have a pale cream color. If roots are tightly coiled or rootbound, gently pull them apart.
  4. Place some soil in a container and place the plant on top. Next, add more soil to the roots manually until the soil is completely covered.
  5. You can place long aerial roots in the soil if your Monstera is tall.
  6. The repotted plant should be given regular watering.

Staking or Moss Pole

Monstera Borsigiana is a vine plant that loves climbing. You will need to support the plant so it doesn’t end up on the floor. When the plant is small, stakes will work.

Once it has reached 3 feet (90cm) in height, you can start to think about attaching it to a Moss Pole. Moss poles can not only support more weight but are also stronger and more durable than other types. They also have a texture similar to Monstera plants.

Propagating Monstera Borsigiana

Monstera borsigiana can be propagated to produce more. Monstera, like all aroid plants is easy to propagate. You can start by planting cuttings in water.

You are creating a clone from the main Monstera plant by propagating it through cuttings. The cutting will thrive if the mother plant is healthy with lush leaves. If your Monstera main plant is ill, such as mosaic virus or other viral diseases, the cutting will continue to thrive.

How to Propagate Monstera Borsigiana

Spring is the best time to propagate Monstera borsigiana. This is also when you should be pruning. Knowing how to prune from the mother plant is key to success.

  1. A pair of gardening gloves and a sharp knife are essential.
  2. Choose a stem with at least one leaf and one node. As close as possible to the main stem. You can also trim larger stems by cutting them into smaller pieces with each leaf and growth node.
  3. Each cut should be placed in a glass, or a jar containing water. Tap water is fine. However, if your area has hard water, we recommend that you use rainwater or distilled water.
  4. Your glass or jar containing the cuttings should be kept warm and exposed to at least 8 hours of indirect, bright light per day. You should change the water once a week.
  5. Monstera cuttings can start to grow roots in 2-5 weeks. For example, spring cuttings will root much quicker than winter ones.
  6. Rooting hormones can be used to accelerate the process, but the cuttings must produce roots naturally without any chemical aid.
  7. When the cutting has at most one main root measuring at least 3 inches (7.5cm) in length, along with some smaller roots, it’s ready to be planted into the soil. It can take anywhere from 1 to 2 months depending on which plant the cutting is.

Propagating in soil or water

Monstera cuttings can either be grown in soil or water. Although there is much debate about the best medium to grow Monstera, it comes down to personal preference. You don’t have to worry about how to repot the plant, or the potential dangers of transplant shock.

Propagating Monstera in water will give you more control over the process. It makes it easier to spot problems such as rot at the stem base. It is also infinitely more fun to watch the roots grow day by day.

Is it possible to grow Monstera Borsigiana from seeds?

Yes. First, soak the seeds for 24 hours in lukewarm water. Next, cover the seeds with a light potting mixture. The soil should be kept moist, but not too wet. The container should be kept in a warm place where it gets at least 8 hours of indirect sunlight each day. After 2 to 3 weeks, you should begin seeing seedlings.

Finding the seeds for Monstera borsigiana is difficult. It’s also important to make sure they are still viable. Monstera seeds look like a small bean, and are smaller than a pea. They have a papery texture and a greenish-brown colour. They have a very short shelf life and will not germinate once fully dried out.

However, genetically, there is a chance that the plant grew from these seeds could be variegated. It’s not recommended to purchase variegated Monstera borsigiana seed online. They are more often a fraud than a good deal.

Pests, diseases and other problems of Monstera Borsigiana

A healthy, properly cared for plant is a happy plant. This is true for our Monstera Borsigiana too, so here are the common problems that can affect your houseplant. 

Fungus gnats

These tiny insects look very much like fruit flies. Although the adults are harmless, the larvae that live in the soil can cause damage to the roots. They can be killed by using Neem oil, hydrogen peroxide and water solutions that are sprayed onto the soil.

Spider mites

Closely related to spiders, they live under the leaves, hiding under a web-like layer. They can deal a lot of damage if left unchecked, but luckily, they can be easy to get rid of. A water and isopropyl alcohol solution sprayed on the leaves for at least three weeks should do the trick.

Yellowing leaves

This is usually a sign that your Monstera has been overwatered. Reduce your watering frequency and check soil moisture levels before you water. Insufficient light and too much water can lead to yellowing of leaves.

One or two yellow leaves are normal at the base of the plant. Your Monstera will shed some of its older leaves to make room for new growth. To absorb nutrients, leave those leaves on the plant.

Brown and ‘crispy’ leaf edges

This indicates that the Monstera borsigiana’s air is too dry. To increase humidity, you can place the pot on a tray of pebbles. A humidifier is the best option for larger plants.

Leaves turning brown, black or spotty

This is usually a sign of fungal infection. Check the roots for signs of rot and take the plant out of its pot. Misting leaves can encourage the spread of pathogens.

Monstera leaves does not have holes

Monstera borsigiana’s most beloved trait is leaf fenestration. There are two possible reasons why your plant leaves aren’t splitting:

  • Your Monstera is too young. On average, it won’t begin developing fenestrations before it turns three years old. Give it some more time.
  • Too little light: Make sure your Monstera gets 6-8 hours of indirect sunlight every day. Use grow lights when necessary, especially in winter
Real Men Sow
Real Men Sow

Hello, I’m Pete and I’m currently based in the west of Scotland, in a small place called Rosneath, where I’m exploring my garden adventures. I personally started gardening around 6 years ago and initially, I started out by growing my favorite fruits and berries, such as strawberries, Raspberries & Gooseberries. Since then I’ve added a lot of vegetables and working closely with my neighbor, it’s been a lot of fun.